Free Tool · Texas Hill Country

How bad is your pest pressure?

Pick your pest and severity — get a biological, cultural, and physical protocol that treats the cause, not the symptom. No fogging, no synthetics, tuned for San Antonio & the Hill Country.

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Most pest problems are a symptom of imbalance — standing water for mosquitoes, bare depleted soil for fire ants, plant stress for aphids. The fix isn't a spray. For mosquitoes, a standing-water audit is about 70% of the work: empty every saucer, gutter, tarp, and A/C drip, then drop BTI dunks in the water you can't drain.

Fogging fails because it kills the predators too — dragonflies, lacewings, the wasps that eat the larvae. The pest comes back; the predators don't. This tool gives you the organic protocol instead.

§ 1 · How it works

Two inputs, one plan.

Step 1
Pick your pest
Mosquitoes, fire ants, aphids, scale, lawn grubs, or chinch bugs.
Step 2
Set the severity
Light, moderate, or severe — severe means start everything at once.
Step 3
Read the protocol
A week-by-week plan: BTI, beneficial nematodes, predator habitat, soil rebuild.
Step 4
Treat the cause
Each plan fixes the imbalance so the pest doesn't come back — and lists the synthetics to avoid.
§ 2 · Why it works

Fix the cause, not the spray.

Mosquitoes need standing water and an absence of predators. Fire ants need disturbed, depleted soil with no biological competition. Aphids are usually a plant-stress signal. Spray the adult and you treat the symptom; drain the water, rebuild the soil microbiome, and bring back the predators and the pressure collapses on its own.

That's why a synthetic fogger or contact insecticide makes the problem chronic — it clears the niche for the pest to recolonize and kills the beneficials that would have held the line. The protocol uses biological, cultural, and physical controls in that order. We never recommend a treatment we can't stand behind.

Service
Organic Mosquito Control
We run the standing-water audit, set BTI and predator habitat, and skip the fog.
Service
Organic Fire Ant Control
Orange-oil drench, beneficial nematodes, and a rebuilt soil microbiome.
Instrument
Read Your Land
A real reading of your property's water, soil, and slope — free.
§ 3 · FAQ

Common questions.

How do I control mosquitoes without fogging?
Start with a standing-water audit — every saucer, gutter, tarp, low spot, and A/C drip. Empty or treat it. That single step is about 70% of the work. Drop BTI dunks in water you can't drain, add fans to seating areas (mosquitoes are weak fliers), and build predator habitat: bat boxes, dragonfly water features, native pollinator beds.
What's the organic way to control fire ants?
Drench the mound with orange oil (~1.5 oz orange oil + a tablespoon of Dr. Bronner's in a gallon of water) poured slowly into the center — it kills the mound in about 24 hours. Then apply beneficial nematodes (Steinernema feltiae) at dusk to moist soil property-wide, rebuild the soil microbiome with compost and compost tea, and leave no bare ground.
Why does mosquito fogging fail?
Fogging and thermal treatments kill the predators too — dragonflies, lacewings, the wasps that eat mosquito larvae. The mosquitoes come back fast; the predators don't, so you end up locked into eternal treatment. Treat the standing water and rebuild predator habitat instead.
What is BTI and is it safe?
BTI is Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, a naturally occurring soil bacterium that kills mosquito larvae before they hatch. It's sold as dunks you drop into standing water that can't be drained — rain barrels, fountains, low spots. It's safe for fish, frogs, and birds, and it targets larvae specifically rather than the whole insect community.
Start here

Build your protocol.

Free, instant, no signup. Then book a Site Read and we'll run the audit step on your property.

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